New Project: Family Wagon! (part 4, conclusion)

6) Electrical system

At this point I was at a crossroads regarding the electrical system. The Canadian trucks are all 24v operating systems, while the California and all gas trucks are 12v electrical systems. I had done inconclusive research on whether I could create a “dual” system using both 12v and 24v systems by tapping one battery in the series. As a result, I was left with the known choices of either converting the 12v California truck to 24v or converting the 24v Canadian motor to 12v. Converting the motor to 12v meant another trip to Spector Off Road to purchase a 12v starter, alternator, glow plugs and related glow plug components. I would also need to make wiring modifications, as the wiring harnesses are very different.

In the end, I decided using more time over more money. I had the entire 24v conversion “kit” sitting there, in the Canadian truck. I called Heidi and asked her to change the date of my return ticket to Costa Rica, adding another week to the project window.

My first step in the electrical swap was to pull all the wiring from the “donor” diesel truck. I first pulled the under hood wiring back in through the firewall on both sides, then pulled the main harness from the inside behind the dash, keeping as many connections together as possible. At the junction where the wiring passes to the rear, there was a big plug for the rear lights and lift gate. I followed this back and grabbed as much wiring as possible. However, the rear lamp assemblies were in an advanced state of corrosion and could not be removed, much less reused! My solution was to obtain all the rear 24v bulbs from the local NAPA store and reuse the clean non-rusty Cali lamp assemblies!

Next I stripped out the wiring from Red. This doesn’t take too long, but the slight adaptations that are necessary for the year model and fuel differences between the trucks gave me a few moments of study as I pieced together the routing and connections. For information I had access to Mitchell Manuals wiring diagrams, which proved very valuable in the process. As the system came together, I was also able to diagnose and repair broken wires to the rear window wiper and washer system. I used all the Canadian relays, switches, resistors, modules and instrument cluster.

Here's the diesel harness, laying in it's approximate configuration when installed in the truck. Note the heavy concentration of relays and control boxes in the portion of the harness in the upper center of the photo. Those controls are for the glow plugs, charge lamp and wipers.

The vacated Diesel truck. The interior was pretty decent and matched the Silver truck in color. I used a few pieces to upgrade Silver. Bonus!

The vacated dash on Red. There's an extra box under the dash where the air conditioner evaporator resides. The A/C has a seperate loom and connects to the climate control panel and passes out to the compressor. Other than that, the truck has been brought to the point of commonality with the diesel truck. That ugly non-factory wiring to the left of the column are radio power leads. I'll clean it up when I figure out how to power a 12v radio with a 24v system.

Carpet is kinda faded, huh? If you do this process, be sure to remove the seats to give yourself room to move.

Testing dash functions before final assembly. The dash went together slower than it came apart, 'cause there's a sequence that must be followed. Get it out of order and you have to back up and correct your mistakes. With all the ducting, it gets packed.

7) Results, remaining issues and problems

After doing the electrical conversion the truck was ready to be driven. I drove the truck around the San Diego area, running errands and enjoying the remaining days of my stay in the San Diego area. At the very end of our stay we delivered the 2 trucks to a shipper for their overseas journey to Costa Rica. I call the swap a complete success and look forward to tackling the remaining issues very soon:

A) I have a drivability issue to solve: The diesel truck has a heavy surge at light throttle, especially in the lower gears. I posted this issue on the IH8MUD.com forum and received some great potential solutions. I’ll get after the problem when I see the trucks again. I should see them in another month (Jan ’08)

B) The tachometer and fuel gauges are intermittent. I believe the fuel sender is failed and poor connections are the culprit for the tachometer.

C) The Canadian trucks don’t generally come with air conditioners for some reason. So I am going to need to source the pieces missing from the motor to mount and drive an air conditioning pump. The Red truck has a complete A/C system otherwise.

D) When I chose to convert the truck to 24v, I created further problems to solve: The Warn winch is 12v and needs to be removed, find a replacement, or refit the existing unit with a 24v motor.

E) The ARB compressor and solenoids are also 12v. So the air lockers are dead weight until I get that sorted out. I discovered a factory 12v tap off the first battery in the series. This tap powers the headlights! With this discovery, I have an opportunity to research a solution for some small accessories, like the radio (also 12v), the ARB compressor and the cigarette lighter.

8) Summation and recommendations The entire project, starting with the flight to Vancouver and ending with the delivery of the trucks to the shipper occurred within a span of 3 weeks. I like what I have accomplished. To me the truck is as close to factory as can be. With the exception of the FJ VIN#, this truck is a Toyota HJ60. For our principal “daily driver”, anything less would have me doubting myself. I have a sense of security and look forward to OEM reliability and ease of service.

New Project: Family Wagon! (part 3)

4) Preparation of Red

After wraping up the 1985 "freebie", the next step was to clean out all the parts and components in Red that would not be used for the conversion. All the smog components, ignition, brackets and other unnecessary parts were removed. The goal was to reduce the truck to the point where there is commonality with the diesel. In this swap, that means removing the gas specific inner fender panels and engine frame tabs. I used a plasma cutter to clean off the frame, following with a grinder to clean and prepare the frame surface for the diesel specific frame tabs.

5) Diesel Installation

I removed the diesel motor from the Canadian truck and prepared the motor with the parts from Spector Off Road. My plan for the install was to follow the method I had read on the IH8MUD.com forum. http://forum.ih8mud.com/ IH8MUD.com contributer Wayneraintree accomplished the motor frame tab installation in truck by installing the diesel motor with the frame tabs bolted to the motor. However, his method necessitated the removal of the motor for a second time to weld the frame tabs. I was encouraged by Walter to measure and pre-install the frame tabs to speed the process. This method worked out well and I would definitely suggest this to others, as there is an abundance of datum points for an exact installation.

With the motor in place and mounted, it was time to start installing all the pieces that connect the motor to the vehicle. This includes the intake, exhaust, starting and cooling systems. This process my starting at the fuel cap and working my way forward on the fuel system. Anything that was diesel specific was installed. Heat shields, brackets, everything was scrutinized for compatibility. I changed out the foot pedal and the special hand throttle cable special to diesels. I installed the inner fenders to obtain the brackets to support the air cleaner.

Overall, this swap was 99.99% nuts and bolts. I recall drilling only one hole to fit the diesel throttle linkage up high on the firewall. This was easily accomplished and there was even a access hatch plate next to the location, making the backing nut installation a snap.

Here's Red stripped down to the essentials. The inner fenders have brackets and holes specific to the diesel, so they are removed for the conversion as well. 2F gas motor frame tabs are still present.

The power steering lines are removed all the way to the gear, as the pump is mounted in a different position on the diesel motor and the hoses are routed differently.

On Red I took a few extra minutes and resealed the transmission front retainer. It was a good thing too. The seal lip material was hard as ceramic!

Right motor frame tab cleaned and the area prepped for the installation of the diesel motor tab. I put a small hole in the frame on this side, but I'll fill it up with weld. It wil be just fine.

Left side prepped. This tab gets a greater amount of movement. Note all the holes to act as datum points for pre-installing the tabs before dropping in the diesel.

Here I hot glue gunned on the right side diesel motor tab to the frame. The heat color indicates good penetration and I was pleased with the results.

View of left tab from the front. These mounting tabs were cut off of the "donor" truck and cleaned up for installation on Red.


Right tab from the rear.

Left tab from the rear.

With the frame tabs welded in, I had a place to set the motor. After painting the new frame tabs, I placed the motor in place and got busy with the fuel system, exhaust piping, clutch hydraulics, cooling system and throttle cabling. This is the "glory" work and goes pretty fast.

The fuel system required the greatest amount of materials transfer. Without a whole donor vehicle there is no way I would have had the correct pieces on hand to accomplish the conversion. The fuel filler, vent tubing, and the fuel feed line were all distinct to the diesel.

The vapor recovery device in the rear quarter panel is the same part number. This was good news for me 'cause the diesel rig unit was rusted piece of refuse! The filler neck and filler cap were something I never would have thought of if I tried to do the conversion by ordering parts.

New Project: Family Wagon! (part 2)

1) Creation of Gas truck

My first action was to make the “spare” 1985 truck operable and finish getting the title and registration complete. To do this I removed the gas motor from the '83 truck and installed it in the '85 truck. This was fairly easy, as the 83 had been the recipient of the 85's motor sometime in the recent past, and the parts were all there. I was able to get the title, smog inspection and registration complete on the '85 in a few days. Having the '85 is a complete bonus! We are shipping the “spare” truck here to Costa Rica where we will use it as a spare and I’ll have another project for conversion!

Here's the gas motor in "Red" (1983), ready for removal. This motor has already passed the emissions testing, so after installing the motor in the '85 (Silver), we can expect an easy pass!

Red has a bunch of drive train upgrades. My favorite is the ARB air shifted locking differentials. At the center of the photo is the compressor and solenoids for the iar shift system.Where we live, a rear locker is essential when it's raining heavy and traction is poor. The front locker is a bonus!

Red, in pre-op.

Red, post-op! And a little lighter...

The 2F 6 cylinder gas motor destined for Silver. I did nothing to the motor, other than chinching the oil pan gasket bolts. This motor will eventually be replaced with another diesel conversion when the truck is in our possession here in Costa Rica.


2F motor and accessories installed in Silver. Turns out there was a hitch in our plans. The origonal emissions was performed in a area where static (2 speeds with out being loaaded on the dyno) was allowed. When I tested the same motor in Silver, the emissions test was on the dyno and guess what? She failed!

The emisions failure was due to high levels of Oxidies of Nitrogen. We diagnosed the problem (headers installed with improper provisions for EGR) and effected repairs. The retest resulted in a clean pass.

New Project: Family Wagon! (part 1)

Latest Project: Family 'Cruiser!

These three Land Cruisers are the subjects of our most recent conversion! On the left is a 1986 Hj60 from Canada. It has the diesel engine with an automatic transmission. It will be the "doner" for our new family wagon (the Red 1983 FJ60 on the right). In the center is the "free" 1985 FJ60, sans motor. Our plan is to build our Red '83 truck into a diesel rig, then install the gas motor from the '83 into the '85, giving us a free Land Cruiser! How cool is that?

My wife and I, after living in Costa Rica for a couple of years, have experienced the generally poor condition of both the roads and the vehicles, particularly out in the country where we live. The combination of bad roads, wet weather, developing nation economics, high import taxes restricting access to quality goods and services around vehicles all affect the vehicles. As a result, vehicles here are generally damaged, worn out and inadequately repaired and maintained.

Heidi, and I are in the process of adopting children and we were looking forward at our vehicle needs. We decided on the Toyota Land Cruiser, specifically, the 60 series for a number of reasons.

• You sit nice and high in these trucks with great visibility
• You’re able to tell where the corners of the car are giving you the ability to maneuver the vehicle, although large, in tight places
• 4 X 4
• Absolute simplicity and durability of diesel power
• Efficiency of a diesel vs. gas motor
• Mechanics know these engines well in Costa Rica
• The early 60 series had manual windows, less electronic gadgetry = less overall failures and expenses in maintenance
• Toyota diesel engines can run up to 300-500,000 miles

The 60 series trucks exist here with the diesel engine, but for the above-stated reasons, almost all are both very expensive and really torn up! Always looking for a solution, I came up with the idea of purchasing a clean, straight, rust-free California Toyota Land Cruiser truck and converting it from an FJ (gas motor) to an HJ (diesel motor) and shipping it to Costa Rica.
On a recent family visit to San Diego, California, I made a special one-way trip to Santa Cruz, where I purchased a Red 1983 FJ60. I had been searching Craigslist for weeks looking for this opportunity: This truck had some great features already installed: it has a 4” suspension lift; aggressive 33” tires; 4.88 differential gears; front and rear ARB differential lockers, Warn winch and more. As a bonus the seller included a complete second vehicle for parts: A stock 1985 FJ60 Land Cruiser, missing its engine. I drove the ’83 with the ’85 in tow from Santa Cruz back down to San Diego and left them with my family. This purchase would be the basis of our new family wagon.

After returning to Costa Rica, I started researching where and how to obtain a diesel engine for this potential project. Motors here are hard to find, as resources are so precious that there are really very few recycle yards. The worn out trucks are just patched and patched over and over! Australia is a better potential resource, but after shipping and taxes, it’s no bargain.

It turns out that on the west coast of Canada there’s a 6 cylinder diesel Toyota Land Cruiser for sale, almost every week of the year. I kept searching for a reasonably priced “donor” vehicle. Something I could get at the lowest possible price, yet obtain all of the running gear that I wanted. I wanted a whole truck so I would have every nut, bolt, and piece to do a complete conversion. However, the Canadian 6 cylinder diesels were all unfortunately delivered with an automatic transmission. So I would have to buy some pieces to adapt the diesel to the gas truck.

1) Project Commencement

For a few months of checking Craigslist and reading about this particular type of engine conversion on an internet forum called: “IH8MUD.com” http://forum.ih8mud.com/ , I was ready to purchase a donor vehicle. I contacted two diesel Land Cruiser owners in Vancouver, British Columbia. I let them know I was planning to come to Vancouver specifically to buy a vehicle. My wife booked me a one-way flight and on November 6th, 2007, I flew from Costa Rica to Vancouver.

I stayed in a hotel and negotiated a purchase the next day. What I bought was a 1986 HJ60 with an automatic transmission. I spent the next two days driving through Washington and Oregon and all the way down to southern California. On the drive down, I stopped at Specter Off-Road in Hawthorne (Los Angeles area) http://www.sor.com/ Where I met Marv Specter and his team. We toured his facility and I purchased a flywheel, bell housing, clutch kit, and all related nuts, bolts and pieces to make a complete conversion kit for adapting the diesel automatic engine to mate to a standard 4-speed transmission.

My former employee and friend, Walter, was kind enough to allow me the use of his work space for this conversion. I can’t say enough about the generosity of Walter and his family. I had given myself from the 6th until the 20th of November to do the conversion. As I had some rather large objectives, I did almost no socializing and worked late hours. Walter was informative and generous with his tools, space, home and helpful suggestions, all of which provided a improved process and final product. Thanks Walt!

Top Ten Driving Tips of Costa Rica: #1-4

Top Ten Driving Tips for Costa Rica

The following article is a primer, or introduction, to safe and competent driving in Costa Rica. While this article is brief and does not necessarily cover all facets of driving in Costa Rica, it is an attempt to cover the most important aspects of vehicle safety here.


1. Maintain a high level of concentration while driving

It is easier to maintain a high level of concentration while driving during the daytime, therefore we recommend you to avoid nighttime driving. The paved and dirt roads of Costa Rica, while better than some roads around the world, have many dangerous challenges that are not easily foreseen.

~Large pot holes
~Road side and road bed wash outs
~Narrow bridges
~Pedestrian, motorcycle traffic
~Horses, cattle, dogs, and other animals on the roads
~Other vehicles (at night, sometimes without lights)
~Narrow roads and very little, if any, shoulder
~If you get stuck at night, finding help is more difficult

All of these obstacles make driving challenging in Costa Rica. Therefore, driving when visibility is best, makes sense and raises your chances of successfully navigating the roads of Costa Rica. The pressure and attention needed to drive at night is often not worth whatever you would gain by nighttime driving. For ex., I recently almost hit a cow on the road while driving at night. The hides and eyes of cattle do not seem to reflect light. I was literally on top of the herd before I realized they were there! Who would have thought cattle would be in the middle of a road the night?

As you can see from the list of obstacles described above, a high level of concentration is needed at all times behind the wheel. Costa Rica highways are not like many highways in other parts of the world. On the highways of Costa Rica there are a lot of hills and most of the highways are single-lane, allowing for no relaxation. If you want to pass the numerous, slow trucks on highways, you will be passing vehicles constantly, and on hills and narrow roads, this is riskier than ever. Additionally, you drive faster on the highways and need more time to break suddenly - which you frequently have to do.

Off-road driving, or, driving any of the paved roads in poor condition (i.e., with lots of potholes), requires the driver to concentrate on the path and track of both sets of wheels, left and right. You should also watch others in front of you to see what they are swerving to avoid. Be sure and leave some space if you are following vehicles in front of you. You need to be able to see the road surface and their maneuvers. If you are to swerve, you need to be able to see if you have room on the shoulder and the oncoming traffic in view the other lane.


2. Adjusting tire pressure for on-road/off-road

We recommend for both paved roads in very poor condition and the unpaved roads of Costa Rica, that you lower your tire air pressure from the maximum tire pressure stated on the vehicle’s tires. You may need to try your vehicle with different tire pressures to find the best pressure for your vehicle, its weight, and the driving conditions. I have found that for passenger cars and trucks, running the tire pressure from 18-25 pounds gives the vehicle you are driving improved ride characteristics, traction, and smoothness to absorb potholes and the washboard effect of the unpaved roads. For paved roads in reliably good condition, use the tire pressure as recommended by your vehicle’s manufacturer. Deflating and re-inflating the tires requires access to compressed air of some sort. For our vehicle, I have purchased an on-board air compressor. I am able to re-inflate the tires at any point in our trip without having to locate a gas station. I also purchased a tire pressure gauge with a circular dial. I can now accurately measure our tires’ pressure. I recommend the circular dial gauge at minimum if you are not planning to purchase an air compressor. Knowing ahead of time where the gas stations are is also helpful.

3. Vehicle preparedness is essential.

The driving in Costa Rica is much more demanding of a vehicle. Therefore, preparedness is essential to driving with reduced risk of incidents. Due to the demands on our vehicle in Costa Rica, mechanical and electrical devices may fail frequently and without notice. Preparation is necessary before driving of any type, duration or distance. We highly recommend the following:

· Conduct a visual inspection of the tires and tire condition, including the spare.
· Make sure that you have your spare changing tools and know how to use them.
· Make sure your mirrors are able to be adjusted according to your needs and are well-secured.
· Make sure all of your exterior and interior lights and signals work.
· Make sure your vehicle’s head-lights are properly aimed. In addition, you may want to consider upgraded or auxiliary lighting.
· Make sure all vehicle fluid levels: engine oil, coolant, windshield wiper fluid, brake fluid, transmission fluid and power steering fluid are at their proper levels.
· Keep the interior and exterior glass clean for visibility.
· Make sure your windshield wipers and washers are in excellent condition.
· If you have a defroster or A/C, make sure it is capable of clearing steamed or foggy windows.
· Make sure you have enough gasoline or diesel for your destination or a means to obtain it. You might consider carrying extra fuel for long or back country drives.


4. Driver preparedness is also important.

· Know the laws related to driving here as they are enforced!
· Know where you are going and how to get there (have your map). Searching for directions or counting on being able to call someone by cell phone is not wise while driving in Costa Rica. You may not have phone access on the road.
· Know how to change a tire. The likelihood of getting a flat is higher her due to the road conditions.
· If you are off-road, know how to operate your 4WD.
· Be well-rested. Don’t drive fatigued!
· Have working seat belts and use them.
· Wear sunglasses during the day and don’t forget your prescription glasses if you need them.
· Try not to drive alone if you can avoid it, it is better to have someone with you for moral support, navigating, making a call and spelling the driver.
· Additional things to have on board: 3 reflective tri-angles in case of breakdown; gas can; circular dial tire gauge; jumper cables; tow rope; emergency flashlight; drinking water and cell phone.

 

Top Ten Driving Tips for Costa Rica: #5-10

Top Ten Driving Tips for Costa Rica #5-10

5. Frequently asked for and necessary documents

. You need a valid license to drive in Costa Rica. Costa Rica honors other countries’ valid driving licenses for 90 days. If you are here longer than 3 months, it will no longer be valid. After 90 days you should obtain the Costa Rican license.
· Your passport or your cédula card if you are a resident. If you don’t want to carry your original passport in your vehicle, you will need a photocopy of both the passport picture page and the page with the most recent entry stamp into Costa Rica.
· The vehicle papers: copy or original title/registration, RTV and marchambo to date
· Front and rear plates (or your temporary paper plates)
· If driving outside of Costa Rica, there are additional documents required. Consult your attorney.

6. Be aware of the dry vs. wet season differences

During the dry season (November - April), visibility can be impeded due to the high level of dust on the dirt roads. People often are not prepared for this. In these low visibility conditions, we recommend leaving an extra amount of space between you and the vehicle ahead, for the dust to settle or blow aside off the road. The dirt roads become wash-boarded and rocky this time of year (please refer to tip about tire pressure, as this is applicable for dirt road driving).


During the wet season (May - November), there are many additional challenges which have been alluded to under the other tips. The roads are in worse condition, paved and unpaved. There is water in the potholes which prevents you from seeing the depth of the hole. We advise you to slow down! If you can’t find a path around all of the potholes, adjust your speed and drive slowly enough so that you do not hammer on your suspension system as you pass through them. More things on your vehicle will fail or break down in the wet season than during any other time! The rain, humidity and poorer quality of the roads, all take their toll on your vehicle. The rainy season is also the time when you need certain aspects of your vehicle to work properly more than ever. In particular, your wipers, defroster, and lights need to be operational at all times. Don’t put off vehicle repairs during the wet season!

A few words about river crossings: the rivers are deeper and moving faster during the rainy season. If you come to a river and it is “running bank to bank” (you don’t see the slope of the bank on either side of the river) then it is highly likely that the river is too deep for you to cross. Most vehicles have the ability to ford a depth up to the center of their wheels (some a little more, some a little less). When in doubt, watch other vehicles cross to see the depth, or, walk into and across the river yourself to measure its depth. Oftentimes, there is a build up of rock and sand slightly downstream of the crossing point. This provides you with a circular or off-center route around the deepest spot of the river - that way across is safer. Lastly, when encountering a river, and you are in doubt about crossing, don’t do it! If it is too deep, you’ll be lucky to get towed out by a tractor or larger vehicle and sustain minimal damage to the vehicle. However, if you are unlucky, you could lose your vehicle altogether!

7. Air conditioning adds safety to your driving

Air conditioning enhances driving safety. During the wet season, it may be difficult to get your car aired out and dried out using windows alone. Older vehicles may not have an A/C. If you prefer an older vehicle, you might consider adding an air conditioner for both comfort and safety. Air conditioners also function as defrosters, which can be very important for visibility when it is rainy or humid.


8. Taller vehicles with better ground clearance improve visibility and safety

In Costa Rica, any advantage you can add to your visibility is worth considering. Being able to see further down the road allows you to judge the depth of potential potholes and the presence of other obstacles. This added visibility also gives the driver more time to assess and maneuver around those obstacles. In addition, most vehicles that are taller and have better ground clearance will likely have 4WD. If you are driving off-road, we highly recommend having and knowing how to use 4WD.

9. Newer, sophisticated vehicles aren’t necessarily better vehicles for Costa Rica

In our experience of having our vehicles repaired, we have found there are fewer breakdowns with older and less sophisticated machines. Also there is a greater number of mechanics able to assist you and a higher possibility of effective repairs if you have an older or simpler vehicle. Mechanics are more likely to be familiar with an older vehicle and its less sophisticated mechanical parts. With an older vehicle, there are fewer parts that can fail, the parts are cheaper, and you are more likely to find multiple sources for the parts you need.

Diesel powered vehicles tend to be simpler and are therefore easier to maintain and repair. Diesels have the additional qualities of burning less fuel and have better more mileage. We recommend diesel vehicles for their economy and for driving in CostaRica.

Electrical and electronic components raise the performance, comfort and reliability of vehicles in general. However, the opposite applies in Costa Rica! Due to the climate and road conditions here, these enhancements are prone to failure. The dust of the dry season, humidity of the wet season, and jarring quality to the roads in general, take a toll. Small, delicate parts are at greater risk. The downside of relying upon sophisticated electronics and electrical parts is not just the greater possibility of failure, but the time and energy it takes to repair or replace the part. In Costa Rica, small, specialized & expensive parts are often not in stock. These parts need to be paid for in advance, and are usually ordered from the country which produced the vehicle.

We experienced an electrical failure when we had the motor on one of our power windows break. Ordering the part from Japan took a month on the fast plane. Meanwhile, we were not able to raise or lower a window. We could not secure the vehicle or protect it from rain or dust.


10. Driving smart makes sense!

We recommend obeying all of the traffic laws of Costa Rica. First, remember that it’s kilometers not miles! The posted speed limits are lower here than in North America or Europe for good reason. The speed limit is not always posted on a road sign. Frequently, speed changes are indicated by painted numbers on the road itself. It is not uncommon while driving in Costa Rica to be stopped by police. Be prepared by having your papers in order and obeying all of the laws. If you were not following the laws, or do not have the proper documents, expect a ticket.

Unattended vehicles should be locked. And never, ever, leave belongings unattended in a vehicle, locked or otherwise - this is an invitation to thieves! One last thing, people routinely get around the back country of Costa Rica by hitch-hiking. We are not recommending you pick up hitch hikers, although we frequently do. We are letting you know it is common practice in a country where not everyone owns a vehicle. We have never had, nor heard of, any problems encountered with hitch hikers. You will need to use your own judgment on this one.

Rick Chalmers, President of Adventure Motors: “Bigger Than Yours!” S.A.,
has over 30 years experience in automotive repair. He is a licensed mechanic and emissions technician. Rick owned and operated an automotive repair business in San Diego, CA for 13 years. He currently lives in Costa Rica and specializes in the importation and modification of specialty off-road vehicles.

Questions or comments? Email: advenmotor@yahoo.com

Welcome to the Adventure Motors:

"Bigger than Yours!"

Blog

We are proud to be Costa Rica's supplier of specialty off-road vehicles. This blog will have stories from the company's President, Rick Chalmers, stories and accompanying photos of projects, including vehicle modifications, and client testimonials.