Yellow Unimog's New Home: La Fortuna, Costa Rica

Arenal Volcano, Costa Rica: the only active volcano in Costa Rica with lava spew!

The Yellow Unimog that I originally imported in from Germany, along with a white and orange one, I was finally able to see in its new home: La Fortuna, Arenal, Costa Rica.

The La Fortuna, Arenal area has many, many natural attractions. Its new owner, Bill Brown, bought Yellow from Adventure Motors to start a tour company in this area. He uses Yellow for his tour company, aptly named: Adventure Tours, "Bigger than Yours!". Tours to the nearby Volcano: Vulcan Arenal, or just through jungles and rivers in a beautiful, wild environment.

I'll be posting a video, if possible, of one of his tours. Stay tuned!

Electric Volkswagen Conversion & Restoration Project

'57 Volkswagen Type II Electric Conversion

1) Electric vehicle concept and rationalization

In the mid to late ‘90’s I was living a mile or so from my at the time business, Sunset Garage. I didn’t need a car for my commute: I would ride my bicycle, walk (occasionally) ride my motorcycle or drive my car (mostly) if I was lazy or needed to do some running around during the day.

At the same time, I wanted to build something new and distinctive. Different concepts and ideas presented themselves, but the idea of an electric car, now that was something! I started digging around for info on electric cars. Production cars like the EV-1 were still prototypes or existed in the imagination of engineers. But during my internet researching I discovered the existence of a whole world of electric cars. These vehicles were made “green” by taking production vehicles and removing their combustion engines. Then an electric motor and batteries are installed. What’s more, I discovered there was an electric car club with a very active Chapter in San Diego!

2) Study of body styles and subsequent purchase

After researching the available electric conversion technologies and resources, I began to look at host vehicles. I had envisioned creating something that would be fun to drive around the neighborhood, loaded with my buddies and our surf gear. I had always admired the Volkswagen Bus, (known as a “Type II) with the safari windows and “cool” surf culture status. There was a particular variant that I thought looked most excellent, called the “Double-cab”. That’s a crew-cab 3 door bus with a second bench seat behind the driver, with a little pick-up bed behind the cabin.

My chosen source for the motor package, Electro-Automotive, had a really nice set of adaptations to convert a VW to electric. So I started searching for a “host” VW Type II Double-cab, but there was only a few, and the selection seemed to be either rusted out husks or pricey show pieces with nothing to choose from in between.

At the opportunity to attend a gathering of Vintage Volkswagens, I made a key realization. The Strictly Vintage Type II’s San Diego chapter had convened at Deer Park in Escondido, Ca. Strictly Vintage Type II’s is a club dedicated to the first rendition of Volkswagen busses from about 1952 to 1967. While I was admiring and inspecting the various versions of the earlier busses, I learned that the pick-up model, with the single bench had a HUGE storage “chest” under the bed. This was where the batteries would go! With that discovery, I knew that I could have an electric Type II that would look very stylish with a lowered stance, fat rims with wide skinny tires, chrome, safari windows and a big killer stereo!

Not too many weeks later I spotted the perfect bus. It was an incomplete project left by a young man who was tragically killed in a driving accident. The 1957 truck was in pieces and was missing its engine. His parents were selling the truck for a fair price to get it out of their sight and out of their garage. It was a somber day when I came to collect the truck.The 1957 Type II bus was nearly perfect for my needs. I was going to forever alter a classic car, and I didn’t want to take a good representative of the breed for my purpose! It had rust everywhere: Around the wheel openings, battery tray, floor boards and a long deep scrape along the driver side that was covered by 40 pounds of plastic filler. The impact had actually pierced the side of the truck. The side gates of the bed were Swiss cheese from rust through and the rear gate was MIA. The rear engine cover looked like it had been run over. On the positive side, the truck also came with lowered suspension, bigger brakes and a ton of extra stuff. In my opinion the truck was fairly priced: I got all the modified suspension goodies and a rusty truck attached!

This photo above was given to me by the parents of the young man who had started the Volkswagen restoration project. Behind the subject of the photo (the aircraft) you can see the Volkswagen when it was in an operating condition. Note the incorrect era bumpers and taillights. Part of my restoration project was to correct these non-conforming modifications. Approximate year of photo would be early-mid-'70's.

3) Build up of drive train

Having selected my host vehicle and figured a general configuration of the layout of the batteries, I started by restoring the brakes, suspension and steering. I was fortunate to be the shop owner of Sunset Garage. I used all the resources available: tools, shop equipment, information systems, parts resources and most important, Herbert English and Walter Gates, my employees and friends. Without these two good friends/employees, this project would never have happened. As it was the project moved at a slow pace. I worked after hours and on weekends. In addition, the parts sources I used for our ordinary business were not able to assist me. I had to find and use numerous mail order companies that specialized in old Volkswagens. In about 4 months time I had assembled a “rolling chassis”, or in other words I had a rebuilt chassis with a nasty looking truck on top! I had the lowering kits correctly installed on the front and rear suspension, had the transaxle rebuilt, replaced the brake hydraulics in total, including half the steel lines and all of the hoses. I installed the largest brakes I could fit on the ’57 front and rear axles. Everywhere I worked, I cleaned, sandblasted and repainted parts and sub-assemblies to put the beauty back into the beast!

4) Fabrication of wiring harness

As I decided how and where to route wiring and battery cables, I cut as few holes in the truck body as necessary. By this time in the build, I had taken delivery on the motor kit I had ordered from Electro Automotive. The kit consisted of the 9” brushed DC motor, adaptors to fit the motor to the transaxle, controller, a charger, gauges and throttle potentiometer. Both the kit and the instructions were complete. The electric motor mounted to the transaxle quickly. I mounted the throttle potentiometer and fabricated linkage to operate from the stock gas pedal. I then ran wiring from under the dash to the potentiometer and on back to the motor controller. After mounting the charger and controller, I completed the wiring for the entire control and monitor circuits. At this time I also cleaned up the wiring in the engine compartment where the unused wiring to the gas engine was no longer needed.

5) Construction of battery boxes, battery inter-connects and cabling

With the guidance and advice of my friend George Gall, I decided on making the battery containment system in a cassette fashion. Our goal was to create a 120v supply system installed in “cassettes” to feed the motor. To shorten the cable leads and interconnections between batteries, we made the battery boxes out of wood and fiberglass such that there were 4 cassettes containing 5 individual 6v batteries connected in series. George laid the fiberglass over the plywood boxes to strengthen and protect the wood from battery juices. Each battery had its own screw down containment clamp and I must say, the result turned out very sexy! I fabricated the battery inter-connections using 1’ by 1/8’ copper strap. I put reverse curves into the strap design to give flex to the connections. The batteries were supplied with a vertical lug for accepting the strap with a 5/16’ bolt through the center. After installing the battery pack. I made and installed the cables between the motor and batteries using welders’ cable and cable eyelets that were both crimped and soldered.

6) Road test power train. The moment had come.

The batteries were charged, all the connections were tight and all systems were go. Remember this was still a very rusty and incomplete truck. I had the doors, bed sides and all the window glass out of the truck. It was a stripped hulk! I threw some wood into the cab, to replace the missing seat I had stored at home. I started with short trips, first around the block, then increasing in duration and throttle application. It was so cool I decided to drive it home that afternoon. I almost made it too but I stopped at George’s house to show him my progress. While it was parked out front a tire went flat. I had no spare. Thus her maiden voyage ended. She was broken and had to be temporarily left abandoned, a good walking distance from my house.

7) Disassembly and body prep

Once the operational status was confirmed, I could move on to the body restoration. We stripped the newly installed battery power system, gauges, lights and electrical system. We left the axles and wheels on the stripped chassis in order to move it around. I did some early grunt work on the body metal, including sand blasting the body and some major structural metal replacement in the front wheel wells. During this period I purchased all three used bed sides and the engine apron across the engine compartment.

8) Body work and painting

When the rough work was done, I called for an expert to bring the truck body back to its former beauty. Gene Sheppard, a client, former city firefighter and friend agreed to do the body and paint. All I can say is WOW! He had the most amazing skills. He could use heat and quenching to shrink the metal in a damaged area. His hands found minute waves that the eye could not detect. Gene worked long and hard to put as little plastic filler on the body as possible. The work he did to remove the huge gash down the side was incredible! Gene, more than all the other people who assisted in this project, made the largest contribution to the truck’s beauty and value. After many weeks, the day finally came to where Gene began painting the truck. First spraying the entire tough-to-reach areas, then the inside of the cab, and finally, finishing with the outside. The doors and bed gates were sprayed with the same strategy, but separately on a spray bench. Although I picked Volkswagen paint codes from the early 60’s, the 2 tone red and off-white paint scheme was not an original color option. I always liked the red/white combo and I picked the colors carefully to create both a vintage look and a modern touch.

9) Reassembly and fine tuning

It’s a monumental amount of work assembling a car. Even though this Volkswagen Bus was vintage and therefore very simple, there were a gazillion details to sweat. Finding replacement parts like window gaskets and floor mats were easy, since there are a few mail order companies who make their entire business selling Volkswagen parts. For hard or nearly impossible to find stuff I would go to the semi annual swap meets. Here I was able to source obsolete and rare used parts. In addition, I learned that there are collectors and enthusiasts all over the state and the country. Some individuals were practically walking, talking parts catalogs. My truck had a few particular characteristics that when described to these few people, would indicate to them that my truck was built exactly mid year in 1957! These guys were tuned in to the subtle changes in manufacturing over the entire 15 year production run! My progress reassembling the truck went by advances and pauses: my method was to order everything I could need, work on a given task until I was either done or needed something additional. Then that task was put aside while re-ordering and waiting for more materials. It wasn’t too long of an assembly because it had been built up and tested before. So while it wasn’t exactly “Fit tab A into slot B”, it wasn’t all that laborious either.

10) Stereo system

As the truck became drivable, my buddy Jim Hull came and measured the cab total volume and space available for a stereo installation. Jim worked for a major car stereo company doing production work. His involvement for my project was done after business hours at his job. What Jimmy created for me was absolutely exceptional. The system he assembled was a radio head and 6 disc CD changer with remote infra-red access. These played through twin 12” woofers mounted in a tuned, ported enclosure, a pair of 6” directional mid speakers and a pair of 2” tweeters, also directional. These were driven by a 600 watt amp through active and passive crossovers. Jim did the whole thing, computer designing and building the custom enclosures, install, wiring, tuning the amp, the works. I loved the sound, and I’d say I’ve never had such a beautiful sound system. Mettalica never sounded so good or so loud!

11) Conclusions and suggestions

I almost completed this project. I had a fully functioning battery powered low riding red and white chariot! What was missing was the front and rear bumpers. I had located the bumpers, but I was satisfied with the way it looked without them. Installing bumpers would have been a step backward in my opinion. Not to mention that the correct bumpers were very rare. In addition they were WAY expensive! The truck worked really great within the design and the intended use. I was completely satisfied with the function. I enjoyed driving it for a while. But my life was changing. I found a buyer for my business. I started the new millennium with time for extended travel. There was no more 1 mile commute to work! There was no more commute at all! I no longer had keys to a shop with a hoist, compressor and all types of tools. I was ready to move on. Within months the electric Pickup no longer served as my main vehicle. I advertised the truck and sold the truck to a teacher up in Los Angeles. Eight months after selling my business, I delivered the truck to the school teacher in L.A. He e-mailed me once or twice after taking ownership with questions, but I don’t know if he’s still driving it or not. In conclusion, the project matured me in a few different ways. I now realize how extremely important it is to be surrounded by people who have skills and are generous in spirit and with their abilities. Relationships are important for the completion of a project, but they are also important for giving and to receiving contributions of specific skills from good friends. I was surrounded by very generous people during this period of my life, and the experience is a treasured memory. The second point of maturity is more pragmatic. Given the monumental amount of hours and cubic dollars spent on the restoration and conversion, it was surprising to find out that expenses were fractionally valued when it was time to sell! I am now completely clear that projects are to be appreciated for the enjoyment of the process more than anything else. Given these two points of wisdom, my future projects will be for the fun and enjoyment of the contribution of accumulated skills of those around me. This and the process of group creation will be my rewards.

The VW in a corner tucked next to my business at the time, Sunset Garage, Ocean Beach, San Diego. Down the street at the end of the block is the Pacific Ocean!

This was my first documented conversion process. On reflection, I notice and have made the corrections, so that my subsequent conversions will all be better documented. I did not take many technical photos of this project. That is my only regret.

Coming Soon: Volkswagon Truck goes Electric!!!!

Coming Soon:

How did this '57 VW Truck become a Tricked-out Electric Vehicle?

Find out in our next set of posts: pictures and descriptions of the conversion.

Phase VI: Studebaker Conversion: Incidentals, AKA “A Work in Progress”


I won’t mention every detail of every modification and fabrication necessary to complete this project. I will quickly list some of the areas that were also altered to complete the project:

*New custom rear springs
*New rear shocks
*New fuel and brake lines

I also re-used the 4 WD center console out of the Chevy Blazer and wired it up so the shift indicator would operate.

We brought the entire engine management system of the Chevy motor and I built a new fuse block assembly where the old Studebaker heater core used to be. I put the engine computer way up high under the dash and wired it all together so the Studebaker actually has its original wiring and fuse block plus a whole new fuse block for the engine and accessories. After getting the engine running, I installed the air conditioning system and fit all of the hoses. I took the running vehicle to an a/c shop nearby where they crimped the hoses and charged the system.

Timeline from start to current “finish”:

*Research & purchase of a vintage vehicle “wagon” (Rick wanted to accommodate surfboards): Sept. ’04- Dec. ’04. We chose a Studebaker Lark wagon as it was maneuverable and had a great feel to it. Roomy and spacious yet way compact compared to other late 50’s and other 60’s model wagons. Heidi discovered the model she wanted while visiting family in Massachusettes (and test-driving old Chevy wagons that were no fun at all to drive). That Heidi could see over the steering wheel was a helpful factor. “Driving the Lark is a lark!”

*Having the Lark, stock, be drive-able, making small repairs: Dec. ’04-Dec. ‘05

*Decided to make the big leap and do the conversion to anticipate a life in Costa Rica: March ‘05

*4 months of the better part of every week, 2 people to accomplish the conversion thus documented in this Blog: March/Feb. ’05- May/June ’05.

*Late June ’05- The Lark is loaded on a ship bound for Costa Rica

*July ’05- The Lark arrives in Costa Rica


Future projects while in Costa Rica will include:

*Trouble –shooting the air conditioning clutch, which seems to have failed
Installing a temperature switch for automatic coolant fan operation (it is a manual switch currently)

*Re-do the interior door panels, floor carpet and seats-keeping the original look

*Finish the horn contact installation and steering wheel to original look

*Re-working the doors and locks (rebuilding all 4 doors for weather-proofing as well)

*New (retro?) tires

*Stereo installation

We will post photos of these projects in the far future when these points are accomplished. We won’t be working on this until we have our house and Rick’s garage/workshop built on our land in Costa Rica (about 4-5 years out!). But, the Lark totally works great the way she is now. And, driving her in Costa Rica is truly, a Lark! 

Phase V: Studebaker Conversion: Installing the Radiator, Brake Assembly & Steering

Disclaimer: We don’t have pictures of the final construction and installation of the brake vacuum booster, brake master cylinder, and steering column. We apologize!


First of all, this was the hardest part! There was seemingly more head scratching, fabrication, and money spent on these three items than the whole process prior. In truth, there was just more problem-solving and time spent during this phase.

We were re-using the brake hanger assembly and booster out of the Chevy Blazer. We wanted to keep the parts matched to the running gear. Re-using the Studebaker steering column was out of the question. Its installation angle and length did not fit the new configuration and location of the steering gear. We were able to solve the steering shaft by manufacturing a column based on an early ‘70’s Chevy van with automatic steering column. We re-worked the column to fit the Blazer extension shaft on the lower end and accept the Studebaker steering wheel at the top.
The radiator was re-fit but we could not keep the original location of the radiator. We had to move it up and forward to clear the front of the frame. We notched the frame as far as possible to keep the radiator as large as possible. We had a new custom radiator manufactured from the mounting rails and upper and lower tanks of the Studebaker radiator. I went through the selection of radiator hoses at a local Napa auto parts store and purchased two hoses to complete the custom installation. I also installed an electric cooling fan. 

Phase IV: Studebaker Conversion: Fitting the Body to the Frame


After completing the frame grafting, I completely painted the new frame for corrosion protection. We then mounted the drive train into the new frame. We did not have the rear springs yet, so we leveled the chassis using a floor jack for measuring purposes.

I prepared the body by cutting out the spare wheel well. I needed this space for the new gas tank location. We lifted the Studebaker body with a forklift and carefully eased it over the new frame. We lowered the body to the frame and given that we had used 2/3 of the original Studebaker frame, the rear of the body aligned with the original mounting holes of the frame. We located places for the front of the body where we would attach new brackets on the frame to support the body. We pulled the body back off and installed those frame horns.

Back on the body went, and this time, we created clearance to fit the body down to the frame but to leave space for the transfer case. I needed to remove about 1 square foot of the original floor tunnel. After securing the body to the frame, I added new metal to the transmission tunnel and covered the new metal with rubber coating.

Fitting the front clip to the new frame required a bit more work around the very front of the frame. But we accomplished that with new frame horns and a little notching of the Chevy frame.

We test-fitted the front clip and everything looked good so we bolted it all together.

 

Phase III Continued: Studebaker Conversion Frame Grafting



We double, triple, and quadruple-checked our dimensions and then we stitched the frame assembly together. We took this time to install the Chevy gas tank (with internal fuel pump) into the Studebaker frame. With minor plating and a rolling of the cut Chevy frame, we ended up with a very strong and trust-worthy frame graft.


Or so, Heidi hoped. Heidi’s interjection: I was always a little nervous about a car that had a huge graft welded together. I pictured driving on the highway and the car coming apart like a cartoon. I never shared this with Rick until now, not wanting to impede their creative process or dampen anyone’s enthusiasm! Of course now, the Lark has been proven trustworthy on the challenging roads of Costa Rica. 

Phase III: Studebaker Conversion Frame Grafting

Herb and I were undecided on where and how to graft these frames. So we chose a conservative method and started whittling away a little off the front of the Studebaker and a little off the rear of the Chevy. For our first cuts, we had left the body on the Studebaker along with datum points, so we could locate the front wheels in the correct location in the wheel wells.

We also were attempting to create more ground clearance under the Studebaker. Not a god-awful amount, but enough to allow the stock Chevy suspension to work as it was designed. A blend of original form and new function was constantly being weighed with each choice we made.
 

Phase II: Major Assemblies Freshened
At this juncture, we removed the engine, transmission, and transfer case from the Chevy chassis. I wanted to install reliability in each of these three components. To the engine, we removed the oil pan and checked the rod and main bearings for wear. Everything looked great, so we buttoned the engine back up with new timing chaining gears and tuned up the engine.
We sent the transmission out to a local re-builder and he reported that the transmission looked great. However, we went ahead and installed new all soft parts: clutches, seals, gaskets. We also installed a re-built torque converter.
To the transfer case, we split the transfer case (see photo) and checked the internals. We re-assembled the transfer case with a slip yoke eliminator kit. Additionally, I researched and found a special speedometer drive. So there would be both an electrical signal for the computer and we could drive the original Studebaker speedometer. We were trying to keep anything original, wherever we could. The re-assembled power train was replaced in the chassis.
 

Phase I Continued/Forklifting Frames: Here is Herbie (Herb English), forklifting the Studebaker frame, one of many times we used the lift to move the frames as we tried different configurations.
 

Modifying an antique 1960 Studebaker Lark station wagon: A New Balance of Form and Function for the roads of Costa Rica

When Heidi and I chose to move to Costa Rica we also had to decide what we were going to do with our 1960 Studebaker Lark wagon. We had owned the car for a year and it was completely stock. We spent a couple of months debating all of the different options we had regarding our transportation needs and the requirements of Costa Rica. We looked at importation issues, the state of the largely unimproved (i.e., unpaved) roads of Costa Rica, money and time issues, and our desires. In the end, we decided, while it was completely ridiculous and unreasonable, we wanted the Studebaker to come with us. She would be a “fair weather” vehicle.
At that point, we determined that to have the Studebaker survive (“fair weather” in Costa Rica is not “fair weather” in San Diego, CA), we would need to install some modern drive train components such as a fuel-injected engine, automatic transmission, disc brakes, power steering, and we thought an a/c would be nice as well. A bonus, if we could have it, would be 4 WD. The dry and wet seasons of Costa Rica each play a unique role in the quality, or lack thereof, of Costa Rica’s roads.
For weeks prior to the actual beginning of the project, I could be seen at night, canvassing the neighborhood of Ocean Beach, San Diego, CA, with a tape measure and a notebook in hand. I looked at Chevys. I looked at Fords. I looked at Toyotas. I found that the track of an early to mid-90’s Chevy Blazer was within ¼ inch of the Studebaker. In addition, it had a full frame that lent itself to a potential conversion. And an added advantage was that it was half the cost of a comparable Toyota- which was up until then, my first choice for a donor vehicle.
I was fortunate to have a friend and former employee, named Herb English, who offered to work with me on this project. He offered work space, time, experience, and labor. Probably most important, he also had a forklift, which we used several times to lift the body on and off the frame for test fits. This entire project, after purchase of a Chevy Blazer, took the better half of every week of our time for 4 months.We purchased a ’91 2-door Chevy Blazer with a 4.3 liter V-6, automatic, 4 WD, and air conditioning. Our first step was to strip the body from the frame off of each vehicle.
We positioned them side by side (see photo below of both rolling chassis). Herb and I spent the better part of an afternoon discussing the myriad possibilities regarding how to perform this graft. We finally deemed it wiser to make a frame graft somewhere between the front suspension and rear tortion bar mount. If you look closely at the photos of the Chevy Blazer’s rolling chassis, you will see that the front suspension utilizes a tortion bar. The rear tortion bar mount is back behind the transfer case. We could either graft that cross-piece into the frame or make the frame graft behind this cross-mount. We decided just to go for it, realizing that we could not anticipate all of the details ahead of time.
As an added bonus, which at first it did not seem like anything positive, we had managed to buy the only Chevy Blazer in San Diego with extensive frame damage to the front, right-hand side. After all of that effort, we were still going to need to buy an extra frame! However, the damaged frame was useful in allowing us to cut and hack frame sections without worry of irreparable damage. By the time we were done hacking on the damaged frame, we were ready to utilize the “new” (junkyard procured) frame, making cuts only where experience showed us we needed to.

 

1960 Studebaker Lark, wagon: with 4WD?
This is our 1960 Studebaker Lark, wagon. This is the Lark we drove to Puerto Limon and which served as a distraction during our commando raid! We will be showing you how she went from being a '60 Lark to being a '60 Lark with 4 WD capacity..... Next set of blog posts.... This is a "before" picture, taken in San Diego, CA.